The brand has been using the coat of arms on its dials since 1969. The shield was used on the dial of our test watch, which was also inspired by the replica watches TUDOR made in the 1950s.
The eye-catching hour appliques – eight circles, two rectangles and a triangle – stand out against the matte black background of the dial. Together with the “snowflake” hands filled with luminous material, these appliques provide a strong contrast during the day and a bright light at night for optimal readability around the clock.
The snowflake hands are an unmistakable design feature of fake TUDOR watches, having first appeared in 1969. Although they can be found three times on the dial, there is little chance of confusion. The impressively large and characteristic snowflake on the hour hand dominates the dial; a second snowflake is in constant motion on the seconds hand; and a third snowflake moves slowly at the tip of the red 24-hour hand.
The dial’s bezel rotates in both directions and boasts a two-tone aluminum inlay in matte navy blue and Bordeaux red. This inlay suits the style of the imitation watch and is typical of the Black Bay models, as is the fine knurling on the sides of the bezel, which transitions to a 41 mm stainless steel case that is resistant to pressure up to 20 bar.
Today, the huge parts of the strap are made using modern manufacturing techniques. Other straps are tanned to brown leather, called Terra di Siena, and are also available in textile fabric. Made in France by a 150-year-old family-owned company, the textile straps are made using traditional jacquard weaving techniques.
The caseback of the Black Bay GMT is huge and solid. The sturdiness of the metal case back is commendable, but its opacity unfortunately conceals the newly manufactured MT5652 movement. This movement has a skeletonized rotor, but its bridges and plates are kept simple, thus retaining the stylistic characteristics of previous copy Tudor-made movements that were designed and built with robustness, durability and reliability as a priority. The large balance wheel with variable moment of inertia is firmly anchored under the bridges instead of the cock.